I wasn't originally going to go to Bannockburn because it was a bit of a last minute attempt at an appointment (I didn't even know they allowed for visitors until the day before)...but I'm very glad I did. I've had a few of their wines before and was always impressed...To me it was always a divisive style either you love it or hate it......I think it is one that appeals to most Pinot Noir geeks.....It is nothing like a typical Australian Pinot (which I think is great).
Michael Glover is the winemaker at Bannockburn and to me, he has brought the winery to new heights. He is not ashamed to tell you his philosophy and he is very passionate about what he is trying to do at Bannockburn. He has very strong opinions about irrigation (there shouldn't be any), what yields he'd like to see, what yields you want to get in order to show true terroir...He also wants his wine to be uniquely Bannockburn. To me, all of the reds show this vegetal characteristic that I associate with Bannockburn...to me that is their signature. Their Pinots, which are medium bodied and high in acidity might remind many of Burgundy...and you wouldn't be wrong to say that...but at the same time the fruit is most definitely new world. They have that Bannockburn signature...they have that Bannockburn texture....Michael will change up what he does each year, not because he's haphazardly experimenting because based on conditions he's trying to achieve certain things in the wine. Each vintage he tries to improve the wine and make them uniquely Bannockburn.
I also had the opportunity to see their new plantings (planted in 2007) which was 10,000 vines per ha. No irrigation and yield target of 500g per vine. Michael's feeling that the low yield and the vines needing to compete for resources it what helps them show their terroir. This is similar in theory to what is done at some of the best parts of Burgundy. The new vineyard is called De La Terre and it looks like a winner..
It was very interesting to see the contrast with Bannockburn and Lethbridge. Michael wants to make the best wine possible but wants to make sure they're uniquely Bannockburn...that they have their own particular style (and I think they succeed). Ray at Lethbridge wants to make the best wine possible, what he likes to drink, but I wouldn't necessarily say there is a unique style to Lethbridge..it is just he's doing a lot of good things making fantastic wine. Different ways of approaching winemaking...both are winners in my opinion.
Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc 2012
The first thing that hits you on the nose is this is NOT a typical Sauvignon Blanc...There is a difference in depth, just on the nose. I find out that it has a bit of Riesling, a bit of Chardonnay...has spent time in oak, on lees and with a bit of skin contact....Great acidity, great depth, really nice texture. It has a bit of grass, hints of passion fruit, lemons, a bit of herbs and earthiness..a bit of spice. RRP is 27 which I think represents really great value. I haven't heard much about their SB but this is one of the most unique SB's I've had and at a fantastic price.
Bannockburn Chardonnay 2011
A very well made Chardonnay....good use of oak..and has undergone full malo so you still get that full Chardonnay mouthfeel. Really good acidity....Peaches, grapefruit, a hint of spice...I thought it was interesting that Michael didn't think this one would be good long term while Ray at Lethbridge, who had a very similar 2011 Chardonnay, thought the higher acidity would allow it to go long....Both are actually quite similar but different. I feel like this is a bit much at 57 RRP but still a very good Chard.
Bannockburn SRH Chardonnay 2009
A step up from the estate Chardonnay....Greater depth, deeper fruit (which is also because of the year). A very full bodied Chardonnay with a lot of class. This easily fits in with any of the top Chardonnays in Australia. Good acidity, good structure...great texture...
Bannockburn 1314 AD Pinot 2011
A good intro into Bannockburn..with a bit of that Bannockburn funk/vegetal that comes through..although a bit toned down. Lighter fruit than their normal line which makes for a much lighter Pinot than you'll normally see in Australia but I think that is a good thing. Red fruits, a bit of spice...something in there hints to me this is a cheaper Pinot but it really is a good buy at 27....and Michael suggests the 2013 will be fantastic..
Bannockburn 1314 AD Pinor 2013 (Barrel Sample)
I was lucky enough to get to try this....It has that Bannockburn vegetal characteristic..but the fruit seems very pure...clean lines, pretty good depth and texture considering this isn't even ready to be sold yet... Red fruits, a bit of spice....If this sells for 27, it will be an absolute steal. It will be a good gateway wine into the rest of the Bannockburn line...
Bannockburn Stuart Pinot Noir 2011
A bit more fruit forward than the rest of their line and less vegetal characteristics than the rest..but still shows that Bannockburn character. Darker red fruits, some spice, herbs, earth...Good acidity, good texture. This is a good intro to Bannockburn (even though it is slightly more expensive than the De La Terre..for now).
Bannockburn Estate Pinot Noir 2010
Very typical Bannockburn smell, texture and vegetal characteristics on the Palate. Good acidity, very well made. I think the only thing I dislike is that price wise, it is pretty close to say, the De La Terre...and basically 10 out of 10 times I'd probably prefer the De La Terre...(57 vs. 65RRP).
Bannockburn De La Terre Pinot Noir 2011
Made from their newly planted vineyard in the same fashion as Serre (although my understanding is it has slightly more dense plantings than the Serre), no irrigation, low yield (500g per vine). My feelings on this was, this was Michael's own project...so while similar to Serre, this was done under his tenure, it has his stamp, his way of expressing the terroir, expressing Bannockburn....Really good acidity, which is consistent across all of their Pinots and partially because 2011 was on the wet side...but also really fantastic texture, depth and complexity. Young vines but they're really doing a good job of showing you Bannockburn. Red fruits, spice, herbs, earthiness...that Bannockburn vegetal character...really fine tannis. Structure is there but it is still very approachable (as are all of their Pinots really).
Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir 2010
A bit more weight and fruit on the Serre compared to the De La Terre...you get the sense this is made to cellar a bit longer....Very good acid, nice red fruits...tremendous depth..fantastic texture....I actually preferred the De La Terre mainly because I felt it was a bit lighter in texture and had slightly better acidity..but I can see just as many people preferring this. The Serre has been around awhile and it is Bannockburn's iconic wine....
Bannockburn Shiraz 2008
Medium bodied, good acidity...red fruits...and still that signature vegetal character...good overall structure and one more Shiraz from this region that makes me wonder why were not seeing more from here. I'm not as enamored with the Shiraz (either one) as I am the Pinots..but still very good..
Bannockburn Douglas 2009
Michael's own blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Pinot Noir....I believe this used to be their Cabernet Merlot...Has that same Bannockburn Vegetal character...darker fruits...it actually has a bit more tannin but still good acidity...Good texture and depth to this wine...and for 27, it really is a steal..great value. I've had some Cabernet Merlots from Bannockburn in the past and they weren't nearly as polished. There are a couple of rough edges there but still, really good value..a unique blend....
Halliday seems to suggest that the only thing from here that is vegetal and gamey is the Cabernet Merlot..but really, all of the reds show that same vegetal/gamey character..to me that is their signature..Each of the wines is carefully thought out and tweaked here and there (100% whole bunch vs. 50% whole bunch, etc) to adjust it to vintage/fruit conditions...Yes their wines are a bit divisive...Even with wine geeks, some will really enjoy that uniqueness..and some will not. But you can not deny the quality of the winemaking and the distinctiveness..
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