I've seen this question pop up quite a few times...how do I know what I'm drinking? Are there any characteristics that tell you what you're drinking if you're drinking it blind?
Yes and no...
Sometimes you'll find wine that fits into a nice box and sometimes you don't....Even the best at doing it, which IMO is probably Master Sommeliers, make mistakes (A lot)....I think watching blind tasting by very qualified professionals is extremely interesting and you'd be shocked to see how often they get the variety, region, etc, all wrong....Other people might not feel it is interesting at all but to me, I enjoy watching how they break down certain characteristics and come up with a good guess...
So rather than trying to identify a particular varietal of a wine...I think it is easier to start off w/ identifying the basics...
Acid
Tannin
Oak
Residual Sugar
Alcohol
Then move on to:
Malolactic Fermentation
Stems
Skin Contact (for whites)
Lees contact
I'm sure I'm missing some stuff...but these things are relatively objective characteristics of a wine...You can then move on to particular flavor characteristics along w/ the base information to help lead you to a grape variety and/or region....
It is still really really tough though....Even slight hints from other people can easily throw you off....
For me personally, my best blind tastings have been when I'm totally distracted and not listening to anything anyone else is saying...My worst have been when I'm already guessing the wine prior to even tasting it..
Thursday, October 10, 2013
Monday, September 2, 2013
Australia Pinot Day
Not a big fan of Australian Pinot Noir but I know there are some pretty decent wines out there so I attended this event with the aim to try to find some...
What I found was a few producers I hadn't seen...and a few more good BIG Australian Pinots...and a few other Pinots that I thought were really interesting....
Curly Flat "The Curly" 2010
Well known Pinot Noir in Australia...very good structure, decent acidity, but really quite a big fruity Pinot Noir. Well made, good fruit...but I'm not sure I like this style. I had this at an offline and I had the same impression...Good wine, not what I'd buy..
Hillcrest Estate Pinot Noir 2010
Good acid but a bit of a fruity Pinot. Well made. Another relatively big Pinot. I can see what people are trying to do...and yes, this is an enjoyable style...I'm not sure it is what I'm looking for but still well made.
Hillcrest Premium Pinot Noir 2011
I've had the 2010..this was a bit lighter. In general, I think their Pinots are BIG fruit, high acid which gives them the impression they're more medium bodied. They're quite enjoyable...the Premium being a step up in fruit and a step up in acidity and balance as well as complexity.
William Downie Gippsland 2011
Very well balanced Pinot with earthy tones, red fruits, a much more medium bodied but still a little bit on the fuller side. Really nice acidity...This was one of my favorites for the night. Pretty good buy but I they're fairly hard to find as well.
Marchand & Burch "Mt Barrow" 2010
A label made with a Frenchmen bringing Burgundy to WA...they also make a number of Burgundies they bring into Australia. I was a bit surprised as I hadn't had too many Great Southern Pinots..but they're actually quite nice and this is a region to look out for. Really nice complexity, mouthfeel and balance. I bit heavy on the oak but overall, quite nice.
They also had Bannockburn, Lethbridge and a few others...but since I've covered those already I won't cover them here...
On the WEIRD side...
Moss Wood Margaret River Pinot 2009
I have no idea what this is. BIG BIG Fruit, BIG BIG OAK. Medium minus to low acidity...I have no idea what they're doing here...It is a really weird style. The wine is well made in that there aren't any weird flaws..but the style is really odd....I wouldn't call it a Pinot...it is something...
Moss Wood Mornington Peninsula 2010
I'm getting a bit more acid from this but not really....It could be because it isn't quite as big as the MR one...either way, these are really odd wines...They're for people that don't like Pinot Noir and want a big Cab instead......Actually, I'm not sure what the point of these wines are...experimental? I have no idea....
On this night these two out Domaine A'd the Domaine A Pinot..partially cause the Domaine A was probably a little bit corked or something was stripping out some of the fruit...either way....If you like that style of Pinot, there you go...
What I found was a few producers I hadn't seen...and a few more good BIG Australian Pinots...and a few other Pinots that I thought were really interesting....
Curly Flat "The Curly" 2010
Well known Pinot Noir in Australia...very good structure, decent acidity, but really quite a big fruity Pinot Noir. Well made, good fruit...but I'm not sure I like this style. I had this at an offline and I had the same impression...Good wine, not what I'd buy..
Hillcrest Estate Pinot Noir 2010
Good acid but a bit of a fruity Pinot. Well made. Another relatively big Pinot. I can see what people are trying to do...and yes, this is an enjoyable style...I'm not sure it is what I'm looking for but still well made.
Hillcrest Premium Pinot Noir 2011
I've had the 2010..this was a bit lighter. In general, I think their Pinots are BIG fruit, high acid which gives them the impression they're more medium bodied. They're quite enjoyable...the Premium being a step up in fruit and a step up in acidity and balance as well as complexity.
William Downie Gippsland 2011
Very well balanced Pinot with earthy tones, red fruits, a much more medium bodied but still a little bit on the fuller side. Really nice acidity...This was one of my favorites for the night. Pretty good buy but I they're fairly hard to find as well.
Marchand & Burch "Mt Barrow" 2010
A label made with a Frenchmen bringing Burgundy to WA...they also make a number of Burgundies they bring into Australia. I was a bit surprised as I hadn't had too many Great Southern Pinots..but they're actually quite nice and this is a region to look out for. Really nice complexity, mouthfeel and balance. I bit heavy on the oak but overall, quite nice.
They also had Bannockburn, Lethbridge and a few others...but since I've covered those already I won't cover them here...
On the WEIRD side...
Moss Wood Margaret River Pinot 2009
I have no idea what this is. BIG BIG Fruit, BIG BIG OAK. Medium minus to low acidity...I have no idea what they're doing here...It is a really weird style. The wine is well made in that there aren't any weird flaws..but the style is really odd....I wouldn't call it a Pinot...it is something...
Moss Wood Mornington Peninsula 2010
I'm getting a bit more acid from this but not really....It could be because it isn't quite as big as the MR one...either way, these are really odd wines...They're for people that don't like Pinot Noir and want a big Cab instead......Actually, I'm not sure what the point of these wines are...experimental? I have no idea....
On this night these two out Domaine A'd the Domaine A Pinot..partially cause the Domaine A was probably a little bit corked or something was stripping out some of the fruit...either way....If you like that style of Pinot, there you go...
Thursday, August 22, 2013
Central Otago 2013
A store called NZwinesonline hosts a Central Otago show each year....expecting 15+ wineries and 80+ wines....so it is a bit disappointing when they have 13 wineries and 56 wines (I think it was actually less)...not to mention it was one of the more expensive events to attend....Even compared to previous ones, this one was a bit of a stinker and pretty much a waste of time...
Valli Gibbston Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011
On the plus side I did find a new winery called Valli....
They had three pretty good Pinots available...they actually have more based on their website.
Valli Gibbston Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011
Really good acidity (best of the three), clean red fruit, some herbs, slight minerality...very good texture and depth....Lighter in mouthfeel than the other two and my favorite of the three.
Valli Bannockburn Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011
Slightly fuller mouthfeel than the Gibbston...good acidity, not quite as good as the Gibbston...bit bigger fruit and a bit more tannin structure...although they're relatively soft...Good overall Pinot...
Valli Bendigo Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011
Similar mouthfeel to the Bannockburn Vineyard....good acidity although less than the Bannockburn...Bigger fruit than the other two...Bigger tannins than the other two...It actually had some Aussie PN flavors to it...My least favorite of the three but still pretty decent overall.
Pretty good set of Pinots and according to their website they have a Waitaki which sounds like it something I would like to try. The downside? At 60 it is in territory where there are some other pretty good alternatives....although not many...
Wooing Tree Sandstorm Reserve Pinot Noir 2009
I tried this probably six months back and it was a bit of a monster. Really big harsh tannins...you could sense a pretty good wine underneath but the tannins were ripping my face off. To my surprise, this has really softened quite a bit since then and it was looking really really good. Biggish red fruit but with a lot of different things going on...really good acidity...with the softer tannins the wine had really good texture...fantastic complexity...Cranberries, sour cherry, some herbs...hints of dark chocolate...It is good to see this wine come around....Overall probably the best wine of the show...but at 100+AUD...it is probably a bit overpriced...
Probably the biggest disappointment at the show (for me) was Mt. Difficulty...I haven't really liked any of their stuff in awhile...but they have an overall good reputation....but the best way to describe where they're going is looking at their reserves...Pipeclay and Long Gully....Both were really quite sweet....good complexity...but really, a fruit bomb of a Pinot Noir...it was really quite meh with lowish acidity....Apparently there is no residual sugar...I find that almost impossible to believe..
Wednesday, August 21, 2013
Coonawarra
Coonawarra has a roadshow each year....and since I was in Melbourne at the time, it seemed like a pretty good opportunity to see what is happening in Coonawarra...
First off...They know their whites aren't great...I know their whites aren't great...there aren't a lot of them. The riesling was quite disappointing overall...I actually felt like it went through Malo...a bit flat...flabby..I dunno, it was really odd...
Overall, I was actually slightly disappointed....Maybe it was the environment....or maybe I'm just getting annoyingly picky...Either way, a lot of good wines there...not a lot of great wines there.
Just a few highlights...
Reschke Bos 2004
Good overall balance. Mulberry, blueberry, spices on the nose...Reasonably good acidity, some earthy notes, leather. Felt a bit different than the typical Coonawarra Cab..I'm a bit surprised they haven't sold out of this and releasing their 2005....it is a pretty fair price..pretty decent wine...
Brand Laira Tall Vines shiraz 2010
Dark and red fruits, good acid, good texture...reasonably complex..pretty good Coonawarra Shiraz overall.
Brand Laira 171 Cabernet 2009
This is one of their flagship wines so I'm expecting something pretty big but at the same time, I've been pretty happy with how they do their wines with reasonably good acidity. This one is no different...might've been my favorite wine of the night having struck a good balance between a dark brooding Coonawarra Cab and something a bit lighter on it's feet showing good acidity, reasonably good mid palate, good length, complexity and depth.
Brand Laira 171 Cabernet 2010
Not yet released and still a bit on the young side compared to the 2009 but still, very good...I think this might end up being better than the 2009 but hard to say...good acidity, dark and red fruits, earth, some herbs..bigger tannins but not ridiculously big..nice fine approachable tannins contrast with good acidity..
Highbank - They had a few wines there...A red blend, their Cabernet reserve...all were quite interesting...different than the typical Coonawarra Cab..well made...I'm a bit on the fence about them though. I hadn't heard of them and thought they were a small producer...had a boutique wine that I could pick up for somewhere in the 20s...then I looked it up....nope.....50, 60 for the blends..80+ for the reserve...well made wines, fairly interesting...but a bit too expensive...
First off...They know their whites aren't great...I know their whites aren't great...there aren't a lot of them. The riesling was quite disappointing overall...I actually felt like it went through Malo...a bit flat...flabby..I dunno, it was really odd...
Overall, I was actually slightly disappointed....Maybe it was the environment....or maybe I'm just getting annoyingly picky...Either way, a lot of good wines there...not a lot of great wines there.
Just a few highlights...
Reschke Bos 2004
Good overall balance. Mulberry, blueberry, spices on the nose...Reasonably good acidity, some earthy notes, leather. Felt a bit different than the typical Coonawarra Cab..I'm a bit surprised they haven't sold out of this and releasing their 2005....it is a pretty fair price..pretty decent wine...
Brand Laira Tall Vines shiraz 2010
Dark and red fruits, good acid, good texture...reasonably complex..pretty good Coonawarra Shiraz overall.
Brand Laira 171 Cabernet 2009
This is one of their flagship wines so I'm expecting something pretty big but at the same time, I've been pretty happy with how they do their wines with reasonably good acidity. This one is no different...might've been my favorite wine of the night having struck a good balance between a dark brooding Coonawarra Cab and something a bit lighter on it's feet showing good acidity, reasonably good mid palate, good length, complexity and depth.
Brand Laira 171 Cabernet 2010
Not yet released and still a bit on the young side compared to the 2009 but still, very good...I think this might end up being better than the 2009 but hard to say...good acidity, dark and red fruits, earth, some herbs..bigger tannins but not ridiculously big..nice fine approachable tannins contrast with good acidity..
Highbank - They had a few wines there...A red blend, their Cabernet reserve...all were quite interesting...different than the typical Coonawarra Cab..well made...I'm a bit on the fence about them though. I hadn't heard of them and thought they were a small producer...had a boutique wine that I could pick up for somewhere in the 20s...then I looked it up....nope.....50, 60 for the blends..80+ for the reserve...well made wines, fairly interesting...but a bit too expensive...
Sunday, August 18, 2013
Scores?
I've had some questions about scoring and why not include scores, etc...and it is a question I've thought about a lot....
I think one issue I have is, my scores would be significantly lower than most other critics..especially Australian wine critics....It isn't that I'm negative on the wines or I'm a harder scorer...but I'm pretty well convinced that the escalation of scores in the wine industry as a whole, is mostly due to wine writers wanting to establish their brand..they'll never admit it but I firmly believe most of them know that higher scores will get them quoted by stores, in ads, etc...If you're not quoted, your brand is losing out. Not to mention that higher scores means you'll get sent more wine to try and the reverse being true, low scores means you won't get more wine to try....
I also feel I'll struggle with the idea that I should be trying to be as objective as possible about each wine...and some people feel you shouldn't because what I enjoy as a style should be reflected in the score....
So do I publish scores? Probably needs a bit more thought...
I think one issue I have is, my scores would be significantly lower than most other critics..especially Australian wine critics....It isn't that I'm negative on the wines or I'm a harder scorer...but I'm pretty well convinced that the escalation of scores in the wine industry as a whole, is mostly due to wine writers wanting to establish their brand..they'll never admit it but I firmly believe most of them know that higher scores will get them quoted by stores, in ads, etc...If you're not quoted, your brand is losing out. Not to mention that higher scores means you'll get sent more wine to try and the reverse being true, low scores means you won't get more wine to try....
I also feel I'll struggle with the idea that I should be trying to be as objective as possible about each wine...and some people feel you shouldn't because what I enjoy as a style should be reflected in the score....
So do I publish scores? Probably needs a bit more thought...
Tasmania Unbottled 2013
I've been relatively disappointed in Tasmania the last few years but this was a good opportunity to see what they're doing in the region, try the new releases...and Australians are some of the best at changing styles (to their credit and detriment).
Overall impressions: I was quite impressed with the different things a lot of the winemakers were trying to do...A lot more skin exposure, a lot more time on lees...mixing up different oak treatments, malo treatements..some residual sugar in some of the Rieslings...some lighter Pinots as well...I'm not sure Pinot Noir is the right grape for Tassie...Maybe it is the soil..not sure..but the Riesling and Chardonnay is definitely quite interesting...they even had a couple of different Pinot Grigios..it'll be interesting to see how this turns out for them.....I know that their pricing structure is a bit messed up...I believe in part because things are expensive there and shipping the wine out of Tassie is really expensive...I don't think that is an excuse though...I think they really need to start making wine that competes and whatever price levels are out there...
Josef Chromy
Always an interesting mix of wine out of Josef Chromy...a typical Aussie Pinot at different price points that most will be very happy with. However, I was far more interesting in their Riesling..
Josef Chromy Zdar Riesling 2008
Only made in the best years and in very limited quantity, this had very good acidity, good development on the nose and texture wise, it was really nice. Toasty notes, lemon pith, some minerality, lemon curd, sour apple notes, a bit of petrol...First time I've had this. At 40RRP though, I'm not sure what space this fits in...It is basically Grosset type territory...Pikes Merle..more than Lethbridge, more than Leo Buring Leonay and Peter Lehmann Wigan....This IS good though....but the RRP is a bit of a stretch (coming back to being price competitive).
Josef Chromy SGR delikat Riesling
More of a Kabinett style of Riesling...so a bit of RS with really high acidity...I like that they even made something like this since some Aussies are so adamant they must have bone dry wine...but the fact is, the acidity in Tassie is really high...they really do need a slight bit of RS to soften it a bit...it really does not make it sweet....
Stefano Lubiana
An excellent range overall....and doing a lot of good things with their wine...Price pretty fairly for the quality.
Stefano Lubiana Riesling 2011
Really interesting nose...Oak? Interesting...I'm also picking up a bit of tightness in my gums so I suspect even some skin contact? Really interesting texture for this...good depth for a young Riesling...quite enjoyable with the very good acidity....How will this look in a few years? Not sure...but I'm excited to find out....If you like Riesling, this is a great one to try for something different....If you don't like Riesling..this is a great one to try..you may just like it...
Stefano Lubiana Chardonay
I'm a bit biased after the very interesting Riesling....the Chardonnay is show really nice depth...good acidity in contrast to the oak and what seems like Malo (really hard to tell because the acidity is so high). A very well made Chardonnay, at a fair price...
Honorable mentions..
Sparkling:
House of Arras was impressive. Yeasty, very champagne like..a bit brighter fruit wise...I like both their Grand Vintage 2004 and Vintage Rose 2004.
Jansz - Normally I'm not a fan...their vintage Cuvee and Rose were quite good though...as was the late disgorged 2004.
Glaetzer-Dixon. Two really interesting Rielsings Uberblanc Goldpunkt and Uberblanc (Red Dot).
Overall impressions: I was quite impressed with the different things a lot of the winemakers were trying to do...A lot more skin exposure, a lot more time on lees...mixing up different oak treatments, malo treatements..some residual sugar in some of the Rieslings...some lighter Pinots as well...I'm not sure Pinot Noir is the right grape for Tassie...Maybe it is the soil..not sure..but the Riesling and Chardonnay is definitely quite interesting...they even had a couple of different Pinot Grigios..it'll be interesting to see how this turns out for them.....I know that their pricing structure is a bit messed up...I believe in part because things are expensive there and shipping the wine out of Tassie is really expensive...I don't think that is an excuse though...I think they really need to start making wine that competes and whatever price levels are out there...
Josef Chromy
Always an interesting mix of wine out of Josef Chromy...a typical Aussie Pinot at different price points that most will be very happy with. However, I was far more interesting in their Riesling..
Josef Chromy Zdar Riesling 2008
Only made in the best years and in very limited quantity, this had very good acidity, good development on the nose and texture wise, it was really nice. Toasty notes, lemon pith, some minerality, lemon curd, sour apple notes, a bit of petrol...First time I've had this. At 40RRP though, I'm not sure what space this fits in...It is basically Grosset type territory...Pikes Merle..more than Lethbridge, more than Leo Buring Leonay and Peter Lehmann Wigan....This IS good though....but the RRP is a bit of a stretch (coming back to being price competitive).
Josef Chromy SGR delikat Riesling
More of a Kabinett style of Riesling...so a bit of RS with really high acidity...I like that they even made something like this since some Aussies are so adamant they must have bone dry wine...but the fact is, the acidity in Tassie is really high...they really do need a slight bit of RS to soften it a bit...it really does not make it sweet....
Stefano Lubiana
An excellent range overall....and doing a lot of good things with their wine...Price pretty fairly for the quality.
Stefano Lubiana Riesling 2011
Really interesting nose...Oak? Interesting...I'm also picking up a bit of tightness in my gums so I suspect even some skin contact? Really interesting texture for this...good depth for a young Riesling...quite enjoyable with the very good acidity....How will this look in a few years? Not sure...but I'm excited to find out....If you like Riesling, this is a great one to try for something different....If you don't like Riesling..this is a great one to try..you may just like it...
Stefano Lubiana Chardonay
I'm a bit biased after the very interesting Riesling....the Chardonnay is show really nice depth...good acidity in contrast to the oak and what seems like Malo (really hard to tell because the acidity is so high). A very well made Chardonnay, at a fair price...
Honorable mentions..
Sparkling:
House of Arras was impressive. Yeasty, very champagne like..a bit brighter fruit wise...I like both their Grand Vintage 2004 and Vintage Rose 2004.
Jansz - Normally I'm not a fan...their vintage Cuvee and Rose were quite good though...as was the late disgorged 2004.
Glaetzer-Dixon. Two really interesting Rielsings Uberblanc Goldpunkt and Uberblanc (Red Dot).
Friday, August 16, 2013
Geelong - Bannockburn - Part 2
Bannockburn
I wasn't originally going to go to Bannockburn because it was a bit of a last minute attempt at an appointment (I didn't even know they allowed for visitors until the day before)...but I'm very glad I did. I've had a few of their wines before and was always impressed...To me it was always a divisive style either you love it or hate it......I think it is one that appeals to most Pinot Noir geeks.....It is nothing like a typical Australian Pinot (which I think is great).
Michael Glover is the winemaker at Bannockburn and to me, he has brought the winery to new heights. He is not ashamed to tell you his philosophy and he is very passionate about what he is trying to do at Bannockburn. He has very strong opinions about irrigation (there shouldn't be any), what yields he'd like to see, what yields you want to get in order to show true terroir...He also wants his wine to be uniquely Bannockburn. To me, all of the reds show this vegetal characteristic that I associate with Bannockburn...to me that is their signature. Their Pinots, which are medium bodied and high in acidity might remind many of Burgundy...and you wouldn't be wrong to say that...but at the same time the fruit is most definitely new world. They have that Bannockburn signature...they have that Bannockburn texture....Michael will change up what he does each year, not because he's haphazardly experimenting because based on conditions he's trying to achieve certain things in the wine. Each vintage he tries to improve the wine and make them uniquely Bannockburn.
I also had the opportunity to see their new plantings (planted in 2007) which was 10,000 vines per ha. No irrigation and yield target of 500g per vine. Michael's feeling that the low yield and the vines needing to compete for resources it what helps them show their terroir. This is similar in theory to what is done at some of the best parts of Burgundy. The new vineyard is called De La Terre and it looks like a winner..
It was very interesting to see the contrast with Bannockburn and Lethbridge. Michael wants to make the best wine possible but wants to make sure they're uniquely Bannockburn...that they have their own particular style (and I think they succeed). Ray at Lethbridge wants to make the best wine possible, what he likes to drink, but I wouldn't necessarily say there is a unique style to Lethbridge..it is just he's doing a lot of good things making fantastic wine. Different ways of approaching winemaking...both are winners in my opinion.
Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc 2012
The first thing that hits you on the nose is this is NOT a typical Sauvignon Blanc...There is a difference in depth, just on the nose. I find out that it has a bit of Riesling, a bit of Chardonnay...has spent time in oak, on lees and with a bit of skin contact....Great acidity, great depth, really nice texture. It has a bit of grass, hints of passion fruit, lemons, a bit of herbs and earthiness..a bit of spice. RRP is 27 which I think represents really great value. I haven't heard much about their SB but this is one of the most unique SB's I've had and at a fantastic price.
Bannockburn Chardonnay 2011
A very well made Chardonnay....good use of oak..and has undergone full malo so you still get that full Chardonnay mouthfeel. Really good acidity....Peaches, grapefruit, a hint of spice...I thought it was interesting that Michael didn't think this one would be good long term while Ray at Lethbridge, who had a very similar 2011 Chardonnay, thought the higher acidity would allow it to go long....Both are actually quite similar but different. I feel like this is a bit much at 57 RRP but still a very good Chard.
Bannockburn SRH Chardonnay 2009
A step up from the estate Chardonnay....Greater depth, deeper fruit (which is also because of the year). A very full bodied Chardonnay with a lot of class. This easily fits in with any of the top Chardonnays in Australia. Good acidity, good structure...great texture...
Bannockburn 1314 AD Pinot 2011
A good intro into Bannockburn..with a bit of that Bannockburn funk/vegetal that comes through..although a bit toned down. Lighter fruit than their normal line which makes for a much lighter Pinot than you'll normally see in Australia but I think that is a good thing. Red fruits, a bit of spice...something in there hints to me this is a cheaper Pinot but it really is a good buy at 27....and Michael suggests the 2013 will be fantastic..
Bannockburn 1314 AD Pinor 2013 (Barrel Sample)
I was lucky enough to get to try this....It has that Bannockburn vegetal characteristic..but the fruit seems very pure...clean lines, pretty good depth and texture considering this isn't even ready to be sold yet... Red fruits, a bit of spice....If this sells for 27, it will be an absolute steal. It will be a good gateway wine into the rest of the Bannockburn line...
Bannockburn Stuart Pinot Noir 2011
A bit more fruit forward than the rest of their line and less vegetal characteristics than the rest..but still shows that Bannockburn character. Darker red fruits, some spice, herbs, earth...Good acidity, good texture. This is a good intro to Bannockburn (even though it is slightly more expensive than the De La Terre..for now).
Bannockburn Estate Pinot Noir 2010
Very typical Bannockburn smell, texture and vegetal characteristics on the Palate. Good acidity, very well made. I think the only thing I dislike is that price wise, it is pretty close to say, the De La Terre...and basically 10 out of 10 times I'd probably prefer the De La Terre...(57 vs. 65RRP).
Bannockburn De La Terre Pinot Noir 2011
Made from their newly planted vineyard in the same fashion as Serre (although my understanding is it has slightly more dense plantings than the Serre), no irrigation, low yield (500g per vine). My feelings on this was, this was Michael's own project...so while similar to Serre, this was done under his tenure, it has his stamp, his way of expressing the terroir, expressing Bannockburn....Really good acidity, which is consistent across all of their Pinots and partially because 2011 was on the wet side...but also really fantastic texture, depth and complexity. Young vines but they're really doing a good job of showing you Bannockburn. Red fruits, spice, herbs, earthiness...that Bannockburn vegetal character...really fine tannis. Structure is there but it is still very approachable (as are all of their Pinots really).
Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir 2010
A bit more weight and fruit on the Serre compared to the De La Terre...you get the sense this is made to cellar a bit longer....Very good acid, nice red fruits...tremendous depth..fantastic texture....I actually preferred the De La Terre mainly because I felt it was a bit lighter in texture and had slightly better acidity..but I can see just as many people preferring this. The Serre has been around awhile and it is Bannockburn's iconic wine....
Bannockburn Shiraz 2008
Medium bodied, good acidity...red fruits...and still that signature vegetal character...good overall structure and one more Shiraz from this region that makes me wonder why were not seeing more from here. I'm not as enamored with the Shiraz (either one) as I am the Pinots..but still very good..
Bannockburn Douglas 2009
Michael's own blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Pinot Noir....I believe this used to be their Cabernet Merlot...Has that same Bannockburn Vegetal character...darker fruits...it actually has a bit more tannin but still good acidity...Good texture and depth to this wine...and for 27, it really is a steal..great value. I've had some Cabernet Merlots from Bannockburn in the past and they weren't nearly as polished. There are a couple of rough edges there but still, really good value..a unique blend....
Halliday seems to suggest that the only thing from here that is vegetal and gamey is the Cabernet Merlot..but really, all of the reds show that same vegetal/gamey character..to me that is their signature..Each of the wines is carefully thought out and tweaked here and there (100% whole bunch vs. 50% whole bunch, etc) to adjust it to vintage/fruit conditions...Yes their wines are a bit divisive...Even with wine geeks, some will really enjoy that uniqueness..and some will not. But you can not deny the quality of the winemaking and the distinctiveness..
I wasn't originally going to go to Bannockburn because it was a bit of a last minute attempt at an appointment (I didn't even know they allowed for visitors until the day before)...but I'm very glad I did. I've had a few of their wines before and was always impressed...To me it was always a divisive style either you love it or hate it......I think it is one that appeals to most Pinot Noir geeks.....It is nothing like a typical Australian Pinot (which I think is great).
Michael Glover is the winemaker at Bannockburn and to me, he has brought the winery to new heights. He is not ashamed to tell you his philosophy and he is very passionate about what he is trying to do at Bannockburn. He has very strong opinions about irrigation (there shouldn't be any), what yields he'd like to see, what yields you want to get in order to show true terroir...He also wants his wine to be uniquely Bannockburn. To me, all of the reds show this vegetal characteristic that I associate with Bannockburn...to me that is their signature. Their Pinots, which are medium bodied and high in acidity might remind many of Burgundy...and you wouldn't be wrong to say that...but at the same time the fruit is most definitely new world. They have that Bannockburn signature...they have that Bannockburn texture....Michael will change up what he does each year, not because he's haphazardly experimenting because based on conditions he's trying to achieve certain things in the wine. Each vintage he tries to improve the wine and make them uniquely Bannockburn.
I also had the opportunity to see their new plantings (planted in 2007) which was 10,000 vines per ha. No irrigation and yield target of 500g per vine. Michael's feeling that the low yield and the vines needing to compete for resources it what helps them show their terroir. This is similar in theory to what is done at some of the best parts of Burgundy. The new vineyard is called De La Terre and it looks like a winner..
It was very interesting to see the contrast with Bannockburn and Lethbridge. Michael wants to make the best wine possible but wants to make sure they're uniquely Bannockburn...that they have their own particular style (and I think they succeed). Ray at Lethbridge wants to make the best wine possible, what he likes to drink, but I wouldn't necessarily say there is a unique style to Lethbridge..it is just he's doing a lot of good things making fantastic wine. Different ways of approaching winemaking...both are winners in my opinion.
Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc 2012
The first thing that hits you on the nose is this is NOT a typical Sauvignon Blanc...There is a difference in depth, just on the nose. I find out that it has a bit of Riesling, a bit of Chardonnay...has spent time in oak, on lees and with a bit of skin contact....Great acidity, great depth, really nice texture. It has a bit of grass, hints of passion fruit, lemons, a bit of herbs and earthiness..a bit of spice. RRP is 27 which I think represents really great value. I haven't heard much about their SB but this is one of the most unique SB's I've had and at a fantastic price.
Bannockburn Chardonnay 2011
A very well made Chardonnay....good use of oak..and has undergone full malo so you still get that full Chardonnay mouthfeel. Really good acidity....Peaches, grapefruit, a hint of spice...I thought it was interesting that Michael didn't think this one would be good long term while Ray at Lethbridge, who had a very similar 2011 Chardonnay, thought the higher acidity would allow it to go long....Both are actually quite similar but different. I feel like this is a bit much at 57 RRP but still a very good Chard.
Bannockburn SRH Chardonnay 2009
A step up from the estate Chardonnay....Greater depth, deeper fruit (which is also because of the year). A very full bodied Chardonnay with a lot of class. This easily fits in with any of the top Chardonnays in Australia. Good acidity, good structure...great texture...
Bannockburn 1314 AD Pinot 2011
A good intro into Bannockburn..with a bit of that Bannockburn funk/vegetal that comes through..although a bit toned down. Lighter fruit than their normal line which makes for a much lighter Pinot than you'll normally see in Australia but I think that is a good thing. Red fruits, a bit of spice...something in there hints to me this is a cheaper Pinot but it really is a good buy at 27....and Michael suggests the 2013 will be fantastic..
Bannockburn 1314 AD Pinor 2013 (Barrel Sample)
I was lucky enough to get to try this....It has that Bannockburn vegetal characteristic..but the fruit seems very pure...clean lines, pretty good depth and texture considering this isn't even ready to be sold yet... Red fruits, a bit of spice....If this sells for 27, it will be an absolute steal. It will be a good gateway wine into the rest of the Bannockburn line...
Bannockburn Stuart Pinot Noir 2011
A bit more fruit forward than the rest of their line and less vegetal characteristics than the rest..but still shows that Bannockburn character. Darker red fruits, some spice, herbs, earth...Good acidity, good texture. This is a good intro to Bannockburn (even though it is slightly more expensive than the De La Terre..for now).
Bannockburn Estate Pinot Noir 2010
Very typical Bannockburn smell, texture and vegetal characteristics on the Palate. Good acidity, very well made. I think the only thing I dislike is that price wise, it is pretty close to say, the De La Terre...and basically 10 out of 10 times I'd probably prefer the De La Terre...(57 vs. 65RRP).
Bannockburn De La Terre Pinot Noir 2011
Made from their newly planted vineyard in the same fashion as Serre (although my understanding is it has slightly more dense plantings than the Serre), no irrigation, low yield (500g per vine). My feelings on this was, this was Michael's own project...so while similar to Serre, this was done under his tenure, it has his stamp, his way of expressing the terroir, expressing Bannockburn....Really good acidity, which is consistent across all of their Pinots and partially because 2011 was on the wet side...but also really fantastic texture, depth and complexity. Young vines but they're really doing a good job of showing you Bannockburn. Red fruits, spice, herbs, earthiness...that Bannockburn vegetal character...really fine tannis. Structure is there but it is still very approachable (as are all of their Pinots really).
Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir 2010
A bit more weight and fruit on the Serre compared to the De La Terre...you get the sense this is made to cellar a bit longer....Very good acid, nice red fruits...tremendous depth..fantastic texture....I actually preferred the De La Terre mainly because I felt it was a bit lighter in texture and had slightly better acidity..but I can see just as many people preferring this. The Serre has been around awhile and it is Bannockburn's iconic wine....
Bannockburn Shiraz 2008
Medium bodied, good acidity...red fruits...and still that signature vegetal character...good overall structure and one more Shiraz from this region that makes me wonder why were not seeing more from here. I'm not as enamored with the Shiraz (either one) as I am the Pinots..but still very good..
Bannockburn Douglas 2009
Michael's own blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Pinot Noir....I believe this used to be their Cabernet Merlot...Has that same Bannockburn Vegetal character...darker fruits...it actually has a bit more tannin but still good acidity...Good texture and depth to this wine...and for 27, it really is a steal..great value. I've had some Cabernet Merlots from Bannockburn in the past and they weren't nearly as polished. There are a couple of rough edges there but still, really good value..a unique blend....
Halliday seems to suggest that the only thing from here that is vegetal and gamey is the Cabernet Merlot..but really, all of the reds show that same vegetal/gamey character..to me that is their signature..Each of the wines is carefully thought out and tweaked here and there (100% whole bunch vs. 50% whole bunch, etc) to adjust it to vintage/fruit conditions...Yes their wines are a bit divisive...Even with wine geeks, some will really enjoy that uniqueness..and some will not. But you can not deny the quality of the winemaking and the distinctiveness..
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