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Monday, August 12, 2013

Geelong - Lethbridge, Eagle Rise part 1

I've always been a fan of Lethbridge which is in Geelong.  I've only had the chance to try some Bannockburn Pinot once before and was really impressed...so when it came time to go to Melbourne with a free day on the weekend...there was really only one region that I wanted to visit...Geelong...

Geelong actually has three different regions...Moorabool, Surf Coast and Bellarine.  Since both Bannockburn and Lethbridge were in Moorabool, that was my obvious choice although out of the three, it is the smallest and most spread out...


Ray Nadeson is the owner and winemaker at Lethbridge.  From my talks with him and from others, Ray was in the medical field, developed a device that he patented and then sold off the rights...so what does a guy with enough money to retire on do?  He opens a winery and makes what he loves. 

Every winemaker says this..but very few often do this....Ray makes wines he loves to drink..the way HE wants to make them.  While everyone else may be going to the left, he's going to the right.  He has true passion for what he is doing, he even goes to see the trees that are going to be used to make the barrels he will be using for his wine.....He has his hands in every aspects of his wine and you have to really respect a guy that has such passion for what he is doing.





Lethbridge Dr. Nadeson Riesling 2012.
I love what they're doing to their Riesling.. Some residual sugar (10g/L), low ph (3.00) and really high acid (13g/L)...While that style is not completely unique globally...I don't see a lot of it...and it is completely unusual in Australia (although I have seen one or two others recently do something similar).  That high high acid combined with a bit of residual sugar to soften it, is a fantastic combination.  Lime pith, minerality, tart apples....Great complexity, great mouthfeel.  I believe these are fermented in oak with a bit of lees stirring......It will really be interesting to see how these develop in 5 or so years..and if it gains some of that weight and secondary notes that Aussie riesling tends to...I think my only issue is I'm not sure how to keep my hands off the stuff long enough to wait that long and Ray doesn't make enough of it to really have a museum stock (I think he said he makes 100-150 cases).  In any case, one of my favorite Aussie Rieslings if not my absolute favorite.  RRP is 30 and it is a great buy at that.  

Lethbridge Kabinett Riesling 2010.
This is something you won't see anywhere but the Cellar door, I believe they only make about 30 cases of it.  Made in a Germanic style called Kabinett so I'm expecting to have a good amount of RS but not a huge amount.   Made basically in the same style as his Nadeson, this too is also just absolutely fantastic.  To compare it to German Kabinett, to me it feels like the RS and the fruit are not as seamless together as they are with a German Riesling..but I don't consider that a downside..it is just different....In many aspects it does remind you of a German Kabinett but I feel like the acid is showing better, I think there is greater depth at this age than you see from a German Kabinett....This is really very enjoyable and one I think my wife would actually drink as well.  A bit of crushed rock, lime, apples, lemon peel...Texture is great with really high acidity to balance out the 30g/L of RS....This isn't made to appeal to most Aussies because many are adamant Riesling needs to be bone bone dry (Blue Nun did serious damage to the psyches of Aussies)...but it will appeal to anyone that enjoys German Rieslings...

Lethbridge Botrytis Riesling 2011.
I pretty much never talk about dessert wines.  I enjoy them but in Australia, most of them are very straightforward - Sweet.  Some have  better acidity, some better complexity...but Australians iconic Botrytis Semillon, Noble One, I would hardly compare to a good Sauternes...There is a depth and complexity it just doesn't have (although Noble One is pretty good).  THIS wine however, is one that had me just amazed.  
Hand Picked Berry by Berry...as each individual berry was infected by Botrytis, they hand picked each individual one off the vine.  I think Ray said it took them 6 weeks to pick the fruit and they only made about 25 half cases of the wine...so you can imagine all the time and effort it took to make this.  Ray says they may never make another one again because of how much time and effort it took..but I have a feeling at some point, when conditions are right, they'll do it again.  
My first impression of the wine were..wow, what else is going on in here?  A real depth to the nose, not just sweet but something else...I then find out this has had time in oak which seems to really have given this weight, complexity and just that extra oomph that is really contributing to the nose.  Palate - Sweet but not sticky sweet...really high acidity is helping to balance this out.  Lime, lemon peel, some nuttiness coming out as well, a tad bit of rock, some vanilla....Really quite wonderful....My favorite dessert wine made in Australia (if you don't count 100 year old Para)....





Lethbridge Chardonnay 2010
A good % of new oak and full malo...This isn't your fat buttery oaky chardonnay but it is most definitely a more traditional, non Chablis like Chardonnay.  A bit of peach, some nice creaminess and complexity.   Good acidity but not as much as I'm looking for at this stage.  A very good Chardonnay but I feel like it needs more time.

Lethbridge Chardonnay 2011
A cooler year in 2011, new oak, full malo, but a lot of really great acidity.  Some peachiness, a bit of minerality, stone fruit...good depth and complexity.  It fits more into what I'd like to drink but still carries that fullness that a chardonnay can carry..really quite nice..

Lethbridge Allegra Chardonnay 2008
Texture wise, this and the 2011 estate Chardonnay felt really similar..but this one had a LOT more depth, a LOT more complexity....Layer by layer it would unfold as I was tasting it.  Stone fruits, lemon pith, stone fruit....Acidity with a bit of fatness to it...This is probably my favorite chardonnay in Australia right now...

Lethbridge Pinot Noir 2011
Really nice acidity, earth, forest floor, red fruits, a bit of spice...really quite nice but I'm not sure I like this as much as the 2010.  Still, really great mouthfeel, really good texture, good depth, and nothing like a typical Australian Pinot...which is great.
Lethbridge Mietta Pinot Noir 2009
Greater depth than the regular estate...A bit more fruit but a bit more stuffing..good acidity, fine tannins, spicy red fruits, some vegetal flavors, some spice, herbs, some earthy tones, mushrooms...really quite nice.  Definitely one of the better Australian Pinots out there....I think the 2008 had a bit more structure to it..it would have been nice to see these side by side.

Lethbridge Mietta Pinot Noir 2013 (barrel Sample)
I don't really get a chance to try barrel samples so this was a great opportunity.  Good acidity, clean fruit, but still development going on...I have no way to properly evaluate this but the fruit seemed very pure....I'm looking forward to trying this when they release it.

Lethbridge Nebbiolo 2013 (barrel Sample)
Most of the Nebbiolo in Australia that I've had have been underwhelming...this was definitely NOT.  The difference to me is the correct structure and mouthfeel was there that I'm looking for in Nebbiolo.  Proper tannin structure, good acidity, definitely still a baby at this point and still developing but this looks like it'll be a really good Nebbiolo and probably the best in Australia...Ray says it is because most winemakers don't have enough patience as he shows me the barrels they've modded to allow the juice to have contact with the skins for over 100 days....Really old school, really smart guy...really good wine.

Lethbridge Shiraz 2010
Geelong Shiraz is really underrated....Good acidity, red fruits, herbs, some meaty characters, a bit of earth...Medium bodied...Not quite the acidity of a Hunter Shiraz but the fruit is a bit cleaner, less earthy characters...I think a lot of people would enjoy this style.

Lethbridge Heathcote Shiraz 2010
This is actually a Shiraz Mouvedre...and the Shiraz fruit from Heathcote.... a bit more fruit forward initially than the Geelong..good acidity...Some meat and chocolate...nice medium bodied feel...Nice texture and depth...finishes with a typical Mouvedre finish...really quite a nice wine...I've seen this blend before in Australia...this is one of the most successful versions of this that I've tried in AU.

Lethbridge Indra Shiraz 2008
This is like their estate Shiraz but with a lot more depth and lot more complexity.  The oak is well integrated, good acidity...Medium bodied with red fruits, herbs, earth and fine tannins.  A really great version of a Geelong Shiraz....I think the only downside is for the same price do I want an Allegra, Mietta or Indra?  To me the Mietta and Allegra sit as top tier Chard/Pinot in Australia...Indra is great but not quite top tier....

Lethbridge Hugo George 2009
Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Franc....A Tuscan style wine....fine tannins, great depth, good acidity with a great mid palate.  A very interesting blend that I think would be fantastic with food.  Red fruits, some green pepper, herbs, some vegetal notes.....Really quite an interesting wine.  I'm not sure this hits the heights of their other premiums...but a VERY interesting wine.


Eagles Rise
Small producer who makes about 500 cases of each wine.  What differentiates them from their competitors is they like to hold back their releases until they feel they're ready to drink.  Available for tasting was a Pinot Grigio, dessert Pinot Grigio, a Shiraz and a Cabernet Sauvignon.  They do have some reserves and other versions but they weren't available to try...

Eagles Rise Shiraz 2005.
My favorite of those available for tasting.  Redder fruits, good acidity, some herbs and some vegetal characteristics coming through...A bit of age so a few other secondary characteristics coming through....a bit of meatiness...mdushroms, earth....RRP is only 20 on this...I don't think it is easily available..

The vineyard is also for sale..for just under 1 million AUD...dreams dreams dreams....


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